Setting the place
Oltrepo.Pavese – Beyond the Pavia (the river Po). Below the Po.
Tucked away in a corner of Italy that it a corner of Lombardy, but closely aligned to Piedmonte, Oltrepo Pavese is a hidden gem that is mostly undiscovered.
After the Wine Media Conference in 2022, I was able to attend an additional press event, to tour the wineries of Oltrepo Pavese, which has primarily, remained undiscovered to all but the most intrepid of Italian wine explorers.
Forming a (mostly) triangular area, Oltrepo Pavese is bordered by the river Po, the Apennine mountains, Piedmonte to the west and Emilia-Romagna to the east.
The 70,000 hectares of vineyards vary in terrain, from steep terraced slops on the hillsides, to small plots in isolated valleys. While the summers are hot, they are moderated by geography – with cooler winds coming down from the nearby Apennines.
With a long history of winemaking dating back to the ancient Etruscans, Oltrepo Pavese boasts a diverse range of wines that showcase the unique terroir of the region.
While it may not be as well-known as it’s neighbors, the Oltrepo Pavese wines are outstanding. The area is becoming more known to Italians as a local gem and is most famous for its sparkling wines, which are approximately 50% of the total production. Oltrepo Pavese is also known for its Nebbiolo, which is often a fraction of the price as it’s famous neighbor and ally, Piedmonte.
With a somewhat dented reputation a place based on it’s former life as a large bulk wine hub, Oltrepo Pavese is home to a fair amount of experimentation and young winemakers bucking the trends and rules that so often restrict Italian producers.
These winemakers are pushing the boundaries of what is possible with winemaking in Italy, experimenting with new techniques and varietals to create unique and exciting wines.
Can't afford the high price of Barolo? Barbaresco? Piedmont Nebbiolo? Try Oltrepo Pavese!
Another trend that is gaining momentum in Oltrepo Pavese is the use of non-native grape varieties. While the region is renowned for its Nebbiolo, winemakers are now experimenting with popular international grapes like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and even Pinot Grigio.
This not only allows for greater diversity in the region’s wine offerings, but it also highlights the unique terroir of Oltrepo Pavese and the adaptability of its winemakers.
This also helps new wineries get on the map with a wider audience, and potential for recognition and sales. This, hopefully, will lead to further sales of more austere bottlings.
The rest of the story
As we begun our adventures exploring Oltrepo Pavese, I’ll be visiting several wineries, as well as local restaurants – to give a glimpse at the cultural cross roads that developed here.
Overall, the region’s cuisine is a true reflection of the region’s rich culture and history.
Despite being part of Lombardy, Oltrepo Pavese has historically been more closely aligned with Piedmont, both culturally and politically which is reflected both in the wine and the food culture that exists here.
One of the most traditional dishes of Oltrepo Pavese is the Tortelli con la coda, which consists of large pasta pockets filled with ricotta and Swiss chard, served with a meat-based sauce.
When it comes to cheese, Oltrepo Pavese is home to several varieties, including the delicious creamy Robiola and the tangy Grana Padano. These are perfect to pair with a glass of local wine to complete the culinary experience.
For those with a sweet tooth, the region also offers a variety of desserts, including the famous Torta Paradiso, a light and fluffy cake made with egg yolks and almonds, and the Torta di Riso, a rice pudding cake flavored with lemon and vanilla.
In addition, the countryside of Oltrepo Pavese offers a wealth of fresh ingredients, such as mushrooms, truffles, chestnuts, and game meats, which all contribute to the regional cuisine’s unique and rich flavors.
Steeped in tradition.
Off the beaten path.
Innovation.
Oltrepo Pavese.
Next up...the wines! Stay Tuned
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